Thứ Bảy, 7 tháng 2, 2015

Raw Almond 2015 - Bob Blumer

Raw Almond is the epitome of the Winnipeg culinary scene. Take an eclectic group of chefs, have them cook a tasting for a table of 15, design a restaurant on the frozen river and let the local and international diners enjoy. A lot of credit has to go to Deer & Almond for dreaming up of the idea and even more needs to go to the creative chefs that made this possible. I finish my spree of Raw Almond meals with a doozy.


When I first purchased tickets to Raw Almond in December, I was attracted to the local talent that was being showcased. What thoroughly impressed me were the chefs of international fame that would be partaking. One of whom was Bob Blumer.

Bob Blumer is a celebrity chef from The Food Network and host of The Surreal Gourmet, Glutton for Punishment and World's Weirdest Restaurants. Furthermore, he also has seven Guinness World Records! Known for his creative takes on food, this turned out to be the most unique meal I have ever had the pleasure of having.

Getting the opportunity to chat with him for a few minutes, it was immediately apparent his love and passion for food. Full of stories, he began by introducing the special menu he had designed for Raw Almond. I appreciate it when chefs take the time and energy to meet and personally greet you, which fosters a sense of togetherness and showcases their passion for food. The excitement and buzz surrounding the air was palpable and with a wink and a huge smile, we began this surreal, delicious and unique meal.


The first dish, ice fish(ing), could have been found in a art gallery. The dish consists of an arctic char sashimi in vodka covered with a thin slice of jicama and paired with olive oil, sea salt and a finger lime. The presentation was exquisite and well thought out with the jicama resembling an icy river and the (real) fish hook puncturing the newly caught char.


The taste was also excellent. The fish was perfectly prepared and had a nice bouncy texture to the fatty meat and the condiments added needed saltiness to the dish. The star was the finger lime. Mr. Blumer explains that he grows these tiny limes in his backyard and love their burst of sour flavour when you bite into them. True enough, it resembled a intense baby lime and the paste-like lime fresh went well with the smooth fish. The only downside was the vodka which was a bit overpowering and took away from the delicateness of the sashimi.


The second dish, prawn fire, was also nicely presented. Three wonderful prawn spring rolls were served with a homemade Thai sweet chili. The spring rolls were nice and crisp on the outside while smooth on the inside and went well with the sauce. I applaud Mr. Blumer for adding some heat in the sauce which elevated the entire dish in intensity. As always, the presentation was exquisite with the detailed red pepper flames.


Bob showed his playfulness with the next dish, Italian onion soup au gratin. Initially bemused by a pizza delivery man, I was honestly quite shocked to see the contents being a onion soup pizza! Chuckling to myself, this bewildering dish was a perfect example of the uniqueness of Bob Blumer.


The dish itself was well done. The crust was thin and crispy and was covered with caramelized onions, layered with a sharp cheese (?gruyere) and finished with Italian parsley. I loved the playfulness of the dish but thought the taste was simply average. The onions were nicely caramelized and added a sweet and tangy component to the sharp cheese.


In par with the meal, the next dish, winter wonderlamb, was so unique that I felt wrong digging it. Braised lamb with a lamb demi-glace cover the bottom of the snowman and are topped with a parsnip and potato mash. Finishing off the snowman, the hat is made of olives, the arms twigs of rosemary and the eyes/mouth/buttons peppercorns. Not only a feast for the eyes, this had excellent flavour. The lamb was expertly cooked and wonderfully tender. The mash was nice and creamy and went well with the fiery-ness of the peppercorns. I praise Bob for his presentation but thought it was short on the demi-glace: I was missing a salty gravy-like component to bring the entire dish together.


For dessert we had chilly s'mores. I expected the meal to finish with a bang and was not disappointed. Bob had replaced the centre dining plank with a retrofitted one topped with a propane burner, a litany of marshmallows and cups of Mexican chocolate. He then promptly hands everyone a branch and off we go.
 
Resembling a campfire, one toasts the marshmallow and dips it into the delicious chocolate sauce. I was visually stunned by the presentation and loved the unique take on a campfire. I welcomed the, well thought out, use of the propane burners and loved self toasting the marshmallows.


The taste also did not disappoint! The Mexican chocolate sauce was wonderfully smooth, salty, sweet and a hint of bitterness. Eating this dish reminds me of their childhood and the giddy fun associated with camping. Furthermore the warm chocolate warmed by stomach (and soul) to face the cold wintry night of Winnipeg.

This meal was exemplifies everything Raw Almond does right. Take a accomplished chef and give diners an unforgettable dining experience that is unparalleled around the world. Words cannot describe how fortunate I am to be able to dine at Raw Almond and be in the presence of a celebrity chef. I entered this meal with equal amounts anticipation and excitement and left wholly satisfied. A night to remember.

Raw: Almond on Urbanspoon

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Raw Almond 2015 - Weekend Brunch

It would seem as though I am slightly addicted. A friend from Edmonton had come to visit for their CaRMS interview and promptly asked what's new in Winnipeg. The hot topic of discussion, from the food scene perspective, was Raw Almond. Describing my experiences from the previous dinners and salivating at the possibility of brunch, we quickly made the easy trek to The Forks to experience the Raw Almond Weekend Brunch.

This particular morning was beautiful with clear blue skies and not a cloud to be seen. Knowing that the brunch was first come first serve, I had some reservations if they had enough room in the services to accommodate us. Nevertheless, my friend was struck by the marvel of the structure and the engineering and ingenuity one requires to produce such an event.

This brunch was hosted by The Tallest Poppy, a local brunch restaurant that just opened up a new location on Sherbrook street (across from Stella's). I was thoroughly excited as they take a unique view on food and tend to mix nontraditional ingredients in distinctive ways, often with delicious outcomes.

We started with drinks. I had a Two-Tone Caesar while my dining companion had the Mimosa. The caesar was as you would expect it, with a strong Mott's Clamato base elevated with a hint of Worcestershire and a dab of hot sauce. The mimosa was far simpler but more appropriate for brunch; featuring sparkling wine, orange juice and black pepper syrup, this was a refreshing start to any meal.

The first course was called the Red River Cereal. The base was more akin to a rice pudding or oatmeal and topped with poached pears and a berry compote. This was a excellent dish as the sweetness of the pears contrasted well with the soft and grainy (in a good way) cereal. Served warm, it filled out tummies with anticipation for the upcoming courses.

Next was Waffle with Bacon. Overall a serviceable dish, it consists of half a waffle with a piece of thick cut bacon and drizzled with maple syrup. The waffle was nicely cooked, the syrup a high quality and the bacon intentionally overcooked to add a crisp element. Although everything tasted fine, I was not enthused by this altogether regular dish.

The next dish was excellent! Coined as a Pupusa, Poached Egg and Slaw, this was the star of the meal. The pupusa, a native Salvadorian dish, was a thick tortilla filled with beans and covered with a perfectly poached egg, drizzled with hollaindaise and served on the side with coleslaw. The pupusa was hearty and tasty by itself but was elevated to another level with the smoothness of the silky egg. Excellent!

Our dessert was a Marshmallow. Homemade marshmallow covered with chocolate and finished with a touch of sea salt. I appreciated the variety of flavors here from the soft and gooey marshmallow to the bittersweet chocolate. The best part was the sea salt which added a nice contrasting ... salty ... flavour.

Overall Raw Almond impressed my dining companion. As a more lax weekend service I did expect it to differ vastly from the dinners. Overall I was happy with the meal. The food was of a high quality and offered some pairings that were both unique and delicious. I do have to criticize the use of paper plates and plastic forks and knives at the service. While understandable, I thought it took away from the classiness of Raw Almond.

Raw: Almond on UrbanspoonThe Tallest Poppy on Urbanspoon

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Thứ Bảy, 31 tháng 1, 2015

Raw Almond 2015 - The Mitchell Block

I write this post with pure and unadulterated excitement. There comes the occasional times when you are truly blown away, when you experience something so impressive that it changes you forever. This happened to me with Raw Almond. While interviewing for pediatrics I was introduced to the concept of the "pop-up restaurant". A restaurant literally on the river, I began to read all the reviews and news articles surrounding this project. You see, the clever minds at Deer & Almond thought up of this as a celebration of food. They would invite chefs from Winnipeg and surrounding cities who created tasting menus for their prospective guests. Diners would sit at a communal table for a night of community, food and conversation. When they came on sale last December for tickets to Raw Almond I gleefully made a mad dash for tickets. And so I begin my next set of posts on the wonder that is Raw Almond.

As with last year, Raw Almond is a pop up restaurant located at The Forks. A design competition was held this year for the restaurant and a London (UK) based group won with this marvelous structure. Best described as four rectangular tents that come together to form a cross, the structure is an impressive site to behold. Brightly lit and welcoming, it literally beckons you forward, confidently telling diners of the deliciousness you will find within.



The design of the inside was meticulous. Three massive diner tables make up three arms of the structure. The fourth houses the kitchen and the chef's workstation. Each table was exquisitely decorated with a large communal wooden table as the centerpiece, wood stumps covered with furs as seating and bright pod lights above highlighting the food that was to come. This type of dining facilitates conversation and a sense of community. While dining elbow to elbow with other guests, you cannot help but strike a conversation. I was lucky enough to dine with an incredible couple, both artists and musicians who presented thought provoking discussion throughout the night.
Each table on each night of Raw Almond features a different chef. This night we were dining with the chef from The Mitchell Block, Sean McKay. The Mitchell Block is a upscale classy diner in the Exchange District. I had heard much about them and thought it was a perfect opportunity to explore their food at Raw Almond.


As an amuse bouche we were treated with Tuna Dusted Popcorn. Wonderfully popped popcorn with a slight hint of paprika and tuna flakes, this was an excellent start of the meal. I thought the tuna flavour was a bit overpowered by the spice but overall found myself constantly picking at the bowl in between conversation topics.


The Smoked Malpeque Oyster was a visual site to behold. Presented in a elegant glass bowl it gave the diners an immediate visual cue but also worked to infuse the smokey flavour into the oyster. The freshly shucked PEI oyster did not disappoint. Wonderfully smooth with a hint of the ocean, the smoke added a hint fire-food aroma to the delicate meat. Simple but works well to showcase the oyster, this showed restraint on the chefs part to not overload the plate of tastes and textures. An excellent start!

Cured Wagyu Beef with Parmesan Foam and Fig Jam was beautifully presented. Wagyu beef is known for its fattiness and tenderness and this version did not disappoint. The tender wonderfully cured slices of beef went well with the sharp Parmesan cheese. The fig jam afforded a sweetness that helped encapsulate all the flavours in this dish. I did not care for the cheese foam as it did not add much to the overall dish.


Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, Fried Pork Belly was simply presented in a mason jaw. The artichoke, sometimes known as sunchoke, was exceptionally creamy and full bodied. The pork belly added well needed fattiness and was an excellent accompaniment to the pureed artichoke. I was impressed by the depth of flavour imparted by the few ingredients in this dish, further detailing the skill of the chef.


Fresh Burrata with Mint, Strawberries, Melon. This was excellent. A burrata is a combination of Mozzarella on the outside with fresh cream on the inside giving diners a nice dichotomy of textures. The creamy burrata was contrasted by the fresh fruit. I addition of mint was thoughtful as it added a tartness and freshness that completed the dish well. Delicious!


Pork Ossobucco was the main for our meal. A large braised portion of pork shank served with crumbled nuts, black lentils and pureed squash. The pork, being the centerpiece, was excellent. Tender and fatty, the juicy meat had a hint of smokey aroma. The accompaniments were fairly average with tender lentils and crunchy nuts. I usually do not care for the skin but it was extraordinarily springy and firm, delicious.

One of the members of our dining group had the vegetarian option: Semi Boiled Egg, Lentils, Green Beans. Similar in flavour to the pork, the perfectly cooked half boiled egg was creamy and decadent.
Rabbit Saddle was the unique name for this combination of rabbit meat, grated ginger and carrot puree, marinated carrot and deep fried crisp (i.e. the saddle). Chef Sean does a great job of taking out the gamey-ness of the rabbit. The grated ginger mix added a nice saltiness and sharpness to the dish which worked well with the gravy drizzled on top of the meat. Overall good but I felt it was missing a carb component to complicate the rest of the ingredients.


Vegetarian option: Ricotta, Green Beans, Mustard, Toasted Sesame Seeds. It is dishes like this that make me reconsider being a vegetarian. The ricotta was exquisite and paired expertly with the stringy green beans and toasted sesame seeds on top. The depth of flavour here was immense and well handled.


Our dessert was a Cannoli with Golden Goat Cheese. Two large pieces of cannoli filled with goat cheese which was, as you might guess, excellent! By now I was too stuffed to appreciate all the aspects of this dish but thought the fruit (?craisin vs. pomegranate) was a nice touch to balance out the cheese.

Overall I cannot say enough great things about Raw Almond. This was an unbelievable culinary experience that is unrivaled across Canada. To even dream of a restaurant on a river, much less one where you can experience a unimaginable tasting menu, is unprecedented and warrants commendation. I am everyday growing more impressed by the cultural and culinary mileu of Winnipeg and you should not pass on the wonder that is Raw Almond.

Raw: Almond on UrbanspoonThe Mitchell Block Restaurant & Lounge on Urbanspoon

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Raw Almond 2015 - Momofuku Shoto

Raw Almond will forever hold a special place for me. It certainly harkens to the old adage of not letting go of the good things in life. The pop up restaurant epitomizes the community and bonds that humans share through food. The chefs are not pretentious, they are not there to make money, they are simply there to showcase their food and engender the deep rooted bonds within the food[ie] community. Therefore I did not hesitate when given the opportunity to dine at Raw Almond again.


I was extra-specially thrilled over this dinner as a spot at the Momofuku table had opened up. Momofuku is a legendary group of restaurants owned by David Chang. The first restaurant popped up in 2004 in New York City and became well known for its take on nouveau Asian fusion cuisine. It quickly spread like wildfire and has now spawned sister restaurants in Australia and Toronto. I became aware of Momofuku when visiting a friend in New York and frequented the milk bar. I still to this day remember the incredible blueberry & cream cookie I had. Thus I was thrilled when Mitchell Bates, head chef at Momofuku Shoto decided to come to Raw Almond.


Unfortunately I was initially not able to secure a seat at his table. Then, with a stroke of luck, tickets to his table had opened up in front of my eyes! What an opportunity, I thought! With no regrets and never any remorse, I was on my way to Raw Almond again. It was after this meal that I can declare that Raw Almond is one of the greatest dining experiences I have ever had. When I arrived I had no expectation of the others at the table (I was dining alone this night) but I left with lifelong friends. As if the stars were lined up, I was situated with some of the friendliest, warmest and thoughtful group of diners. All staff from a local business they all shared a passion for great food and unique dining experiences. We hit it off immediately! And while the conversation went deeper, the food started to arrive.
 
As I write this I am reminded again of the community and bonds Raw Almond creates. As someone who everyday works with hard working no nonsense physicians, it was a refreshing departure to meet and share food and drink with artistic and creative folk.


The initial snack today was Deep Fried Pork Skin, Paprika. The crispy pork skin was nicely prepared and paired well with the paprika. The light crunch of the pork skin melts in your mouth and warms your soul as we prepared for this meal.


The amuse bouche was cleverly presented. A Beet Parfait with Foam and Caviar, the chef showed an intricacy of flavour with the strong rustic beet mixed in well with the salty caviar and creamy foam. A strong offering to start, albeit a bit difficult to consume.
Next up was a Pureed Kohlrabi soup with XO Sauce. This truly harkens to Momofuku's standard of Asian fusion cuisine. The kohlrabi was expertly done and exceptionally smooth. I am a sucker for XO sauce and thought its addition here was splendid adding a layer of salty, sweet and bitterness to the creamy kohlrabi.


This was a marvel to behold: BC Striped Shrimp, Fermented Black Bean, Pickled Onion. The shrimp, very lightly blanched was incredibly tender and contrasted with the sharp black bean sauce well. I was impressed by the freshness of the shrimp and the chefs ability to cook it to a perfect doneness to avoid any rubbery-ness.


Beef Carpaccio, Bacon, Soy Reduction was a solid effort. The tender carpaccio was paired with crisp bacon and a soy reduction. I love the pairing of beef and soy but thought the bacon a little strong and overpowered the delicate flavour of the beef. Furthermore the combination of the bacon's saltiness with the soy reduction made this dish a tad salty for my tastebuds.


Next came the Goose & Foie Gras Wonton, Goose Consumme, Kale, Mustard Oil. This dish was divine. The wonton, incredibly rich, tender and fatty, was paired well with the strong consumme broth. The addition of kale affords the dish some brightness and freshness while the mustard oil adds a sharp dimension to the fat in the wonton. This was across the board a table favourite and something I will attempt to recreate at home.


The starch of the night was a Cavatelli, Turkey Sausage, Black Truffle, Aged Parmesan. The cavatelli was left intentionally chewy so it would contrast the lean soft turkey sausage. The black truffle adds luxuriousness while the aged parmesan holds the whole dish together. Well done!

Another table favourite was the Roasted Halibut, Oyster Creme Fraiche, Razor Clams, Chorizo Fat, Roasted Onions. First off, the halibut was exceptionally tender. The chorizo fat added a fattiness that was cut by the oyster creme fraiche. I felt the razor clams were left to the side here with small bits of cut up clams that did not give the dish anything extra. Overall I was impressed by the perfect doneness of the halibut.


Smoked Beef Cheek, Brussels Sprouts, Sour Cream was incredible. The already tender beef cheek was made even more so by the smoking process. The sharp brussels sprouts, which were wok-tossed to add a slight char, was a great accompaniment and the sour cream a nice cooling component of the dish. Not to mention how beautifully plated this was!


The most unique dish was the Shaved Foie Gras, Reisling Jelly, Quince, Black Walnuts. I was not taken by this dish. I thought the foie gras too fatty and too strong in this dish and overtook any textural or flavour contrasts in the reisling jelly or the quince. The walnuts added a nice crunch but I was simply tasting fatty foie with no other notes.


Fortunately Chef Bates did not leave us disappointed. The Spiced Carrot Cake, Chai Tea Meringue, Carrot Sorbet was a superb end of the meal. I enjoy desserts with a savoury component and thought the chai tea meringue added a well needed earthy component to the rich carrot cake. The sorbet was easily my favourite portion of the dish with smooth cool sorbet dulling the spice of the carrot cake.

Overall Raw Almond is a tour de force of the Winnipeg food scene. Never have I been more satisfied with my dining experience than the last two meals I had at Raw Almond. Being able to fulfill my dream of dining at a Momofuku is one thing, meeting a bunch of brilliant and loving people is another. To be able to rub elbows with some of Winnipeg's greatest chefs, have deep discussions with like minded diners, all in a warm award winning restaurant on the river, will be one of the greatest culinary memories of my life. With that I thank Momofuku and Raw Almond for the awe-inspiring meal.

Raw: Almond on UrbanspoonMomofuku Shoto on Urbanspoon

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