Raw Almond 2015 - The Mitchell Block

I write this post with pure and unadulterated excitement. There comes the occasional times when you are truly blown away, when you experience something so impressive that it changes you forever. This happened to me with Raw Almond. While interviewing for pediatrics I was introduced to the concept of the "pop-up restaurant". A restaurant literally on the river, I began to read all the reviews and news articles surrounding this project. You see, the clever minds at Deer & Almond thought up of this as a celebration of food. They would invite chefs from Winnipeg and surrounding cities who created tasting menus for their prospective guests. Diners would sit at a communal table for a night of community, food and conversation. When they came on sale last December for tickets to Raw Almond I gleefully made a mad dash for tickets. And so I begin my next set of posts on the wonder that is Raw Almond.

As with last year, Raw Almond is a pop up restaurant located at The Forks. A design competition was held this year for the restaurant and a London (UK) based group won with this marvelous structure. Best described as four rectangular tents that come together to form a cross, the structure is an impressive site to behold. Brightly lit and welcoming, it literally beckons you forward, confidently telling diners of the deliciousness you will find within.

The design of the inside was meticulous. Three massive diner tables make up three arms of the structure. The fourth houses the kitchen and the chef's workstation. Each table was exquisitely decorated with a large communal wooden table as the centerpiece, wood stumps covered with furs as seating and bright pod lights above highlighting the food that was to come. This type of dining facilitates conversation and a sense of community. While dining elbow to elbow with other guests, you cannot help but strike a conversation. I was lucky enough to dine with an incredible couple, both artists and musicians who presented thought provoking discussion throughout the night.

Each table on each night of Raw Almond features a different chef. This night we were dining with the chef from The Mitchell Block, Sean McKay. The Mitchell Block is a upscale classy diner in the Exchange District. I had heard much about them and thought it was a perfect opportunity to explore their food at Raw Almond.

As an amuse bouche we were treated with Tuna Dusted Popcorn. Wonderfully popped popcorn with a slight hint of paprika and tuna flakes, this was an excellent start of the meal. I thought the tuna flavour was a bit overpowered by the spice but overall found myself constantly picking at the bowl in between conversation topics.

The Smoked Malpeque Oyster was a visual site to behold. Presented in a elegant glass bowl it gave the diners an immediate visual cue but also worked to infuse the smokey flavour into the oyster. The freshly shucked PEI oyster did not disappoint. Wonderfully smooth with a hint of the ocean, the smoke added a hint fire-food aroma to the delicate meat. Simple but works well to showcase the oyster, this showed restraint on the chefs part to not overload the plate of tastes and textures. An excellent start!

Cured Wagyu Beef with Parmesan Foam and Fig Jam was beautifully presented. Wagyu beef is known for its fattiness and tenderness and this version did not disappoint. The tender wonderfully cured slices of beef went well with the sharp Parmesan cheese. The fig jam afforded a sweetness that helped encapsulate all the flavours in this dish. I did not care for the cheese foam as it did not add much to the overall dish.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, Fried Pork Belly was simply presented in a mason jaw. The artichoke, sometimes known as sunchoke, was exceptionally creamy and full bodied. The pork belly added well needed fattiness and was an excellent accompaniment to the pureed artichoke. I was impressed by the depth of flavour imparted by the few ingredients in this dish, further detailing the skill of the chef.

Fresh Burrata with Mint, Strawberries, Melon. This was excellent. A burrata is a combination of Mozzarella on the outside with fresh cream on the inside giving diners a nice dichotomy of textures. The creamy burrata was contrasted by the fresh fruit. I addition of mint was thoughtful as it added a tartness and freshness that completed the dish well. Delicious!

Pork Ossobucco was the main for our meal. A large braised portion of pork shank served with crumbled nuts, black lentils and pureed squash. The pork, being the centerpiece, was excellent. Tender and fatty, the juicy meat had a hint of smokey aroma. The accompaniments were fairly average with tender lentils and crunchy nuts. I usually do not care for the skin but it was extraordinarily springy and firm, delicious.

One of the members of our dining group had the vegetarian option: Semi Boiled Egg, Lentils, Green Beans. Similar in flavour to the pork, the perfectly cooked half boiled egg was creamy and decadent.

Rabbit Saddle was the unique name for this combination of rabbit meat, grated ginger and carrot puree, marinated carrot and deep fried crisp (i.e. the saddle). Chef Sean does a great job of taking out the gamey-ness of the rabbit. The grated ginger mix added a nice saltiness and sharpness to the dish which worked well with the gravy drizzled on top of the meat. Overall good but I felt it was missing a carb component to complicate the rest of the ingredients.

Vegetarian option: Ricotta, Green Beans, Mustard, Toasted Sesame Seeds. It is dishes like this that make me reconsider being a vegetarian. The ricotta was exquisite and paired expertly with the stringy green beans and toasted sesame seeds on top. The depth of flavour here was immense and well handled.

Our dessert was a Cannoli with Golden Goat Cheese. Two large pieces of cannoli filled with goat cheese which was, as you might guess, excellent! By now I was too stuffed to appreciate all the aspects of this dish but thought the fruit (?craisin vs. pomegranate) was a nice touch to balance out the cheese.

Overall I cannot say enough great things about Raw Almond. This was an unbelievable culinary experience that is unrivaled across Canada. To even dream of a restaurant on a river, much less one where you can experience a unimaginable tasting menu, is unprecedented and warrants commendation. I am everyday growing more impressed by the cultural and culinary mileu of Winnipeg and you should not pass on the wonder that is Raw Almond.