Raw Almond 2015 - The Mitchell Block

I write this post with pure and unadulterated excitement. There comes the occasional times when you are truly blown away, when you experience something so impressive that it changes you forever. This happened to me with Raw Almond. While interviewing for pediatrics I was introduced to the concept of the "pop-up restaurant". A restaurant literally on the river, I began to read all the reviews and news articles surrounding this project. You see, the clever minds at Deer & Almond thought up of this as a celebration of food. They would invite chefs from Winnipeg and surrounding cities who created tasting menus for their prospective guests. Diners would sit at a communal table for a night of community, food and conversation. When they came on sale last December for tickets to Raw Almond I gleefully made a mad dash for tickets. And so I begin my next set of posts on the wonder that is Raw Almond.

As with last year, Raw Almond is a pop up restaurant located at The Forks. A design competition was held this year for the restaurant and a London (UK) based group won with this marvelous structure. Best described as four rectangular tents that come together to form a cross, the structure is an impressive site to behold. Brightly lit and welcoming, it literally beckons you forward, confidently telling diners of the deliciousness you will find within.

The design of the inside was meticulous. Three massive diner tables make up three arms of the structure. The fourth houses the kitchen and the chef's workstation. Each table was exquisitely decorated with a large communal wooden table as the centerpiece, wood stumps covered with furs as seating and bright pod lights above highlighting the food that was to come. This type of dining facilitates conversation and a sense of community. While dining elbow to elbow with other guests, you cannot help but strike a conversation. I was lucky enough to dine with an incredible couple, both artists and musicians who presented thought provoking discussion throughout the night.

Each table on each night of Raw Almond features a different chef. This night we were dining with the chef from The Mitchell Block, Sean McKay. The Mitchell Block is a upscale classy diner in the Exchange District. I had heard much about them and thought it was a perfect opportunity to explore their food at Raw Almond.

As an amuse bouche we were treated with Tuna Dusted Popcorn. Wonderfully popped popcorn with a slight hint of paprika and tuna flakes, this was an excellent start of the meal. I thought the tuna flavour was a bit overpowered by the spice but overall found myself constantly picking at the bowl in between conversation topics.

The Smoked Malpeque Oyster was a visual site to behold. Presented in a elegant glass bowl it gave the diners an immediate visual cue but also worked to infuse the smokey flavour into the oyster. The freshly shucked PEI oyster did not disappoint. Wonderfully smooth with a hint of the ocean, the smoke added a hint fire-food aroma to the delicate meat. Simple but works well to showcase the oyster, this showed restraint on the chefs part to not overload the plate of tastes and textures. An excellent start!

Cured Wagyu Beef with Parmesan Foam and Fig Jam was beautifully presented. Wagyu beef is known for its fattiness and tenderness and this version did not disappoint. The tender wonderfully cured slices of beef went well with the sharp Parmesan cheese. The fig jam afforded a sweetness that helped encapsulate all the flavours in this dish. I did not care for the cheese foam as it did not add much to the overall dish.

Jerusalem Artichoke Soup, Fried Pork Belly was simply presented in a mason jaw. The artichoke, sometimes known as sunchoke, was exceptionally creamy and full bodied. The pork belly added well needed fattiness and was an excellent accompaniment to the pureed artichoke. I was impressed by the depth of flavour imparted by the few ingredients in this dish, further detailing the skill of the chef.

Fresh Burrata with Mint, Strawberries, Melon. This was excellent. A burrata is a combination of Mozzarella on the outside with fresh cream on the inside giving diners a nice dichotomy of textures. The creamy burrata was contrasted by the fresh fruit. I addition of mint was thoughtful as it added a tartness and freshness that completed the dish well. Delicious!

Pork Ossobucco was the main for our meal. A large braised portion of pork shank served with crumbled nuts, black lentils and pureed squash. The pork, being the centerpiece, was excellent. Tender and fatty, the juicy meat had a hint of smokey aroma. The accompaniments were fairly average with tender lentils and crunchy nuts. I usually do not care for the skin but it was extraordinarily springy and firm, delicious.

One of the members of our dining group had the vegetarian option: Semi Boiled Egg, Lentils, Green Beans. Similar in flavour to the pork, the perfectly cooked half boiled egg was creamy and decadent.

Rabbit Saddle was the unique name for this combination of rabbit meat, grated ginger and carrot puree, marinated carrot and deep fried crisp (i.e. the saddle). Chef Sean does a great job of taking out the gamey-ness of the rabbit. The grated ginger mix added a nice saltiness and sharpness to the dish which worked well with the gravy drizzled on top of the meat. Overall good but I felt it was missing a carb component to complicate the rest of the ingredients.

Vegetarian option: Ricotta, Green Beans, Mustard, Toasted Sesame Seeds. It is dishes like this that make me reconsider being a vegetarian. The ricotta was exquisite and paired expertly with the stringy green beans and toasted sesame seeds on top. The depth of flavour here was immense and well handled.

Our dessert was a Cannoli with Golden Goat Cheese. Two large pieces of cannoli filled with goat cheese which was, as you might guess, excellent! By now I was too stuffed to appreciate all the aspects of this dish but thought the fruit (?craisin vs. pomegranate) was a nice touch to balance out the cheese.

Overall I cannot say enough great things about Raw Almond. This was an unbelievable culinary experience that is unrivaled across Canada. To even dream of a restaurant on a river, much less one where you can experience a unimaginable tasting menu, is unprecedented and warrants commendation. I am everyday growing more impressed by the cultural and culinary mileu of Winnipeg and you should not pass on the wonder that is Raw Almond.

Raw Almond 2015 - Momofuku Shoto

Raw Almond will forever hold a special place for me. It certainly harkens to the old adage of not letting go of the good things in life. The pop up restaurant epitomizes the community and bonds that humans share through food. The chefs are not pretentious, they are not there to make money, they are simply there to showcase their food and engender the deep rooted bonds within the food[ie] community. Therefore I did not hesitate when given the opportunity to dine at Raw Almond again.

I was extra-specially thrilled over this dinner as a spot at the Momofuku table had opened up. Momofuku is a legendary group of restaurants owned by David Chang. The first restaurant popped up in 2004 in New York City and became well known for its take on nouveau Asian fusion cuisine. It quickly spread like wildfire and has now spawned sister restaurants in Australia and Toronto. I became aware of Momofuku when visiting a friend in New York and frequented the milk bar. I still to this day remember the incredible blueberry & cream cookie I had. Thus I was thrilled when Mitchell Bates, head chef at Momofuku Shoto decided to come to Raw Almond.

Unfortunately I was initially not able to secure a seat at his table. Then, with a stroke of luck, tickets to his table had opened up in front of my eyes! What an opportunity, I thought! With no regrets and never any remorse, I was on my way to Raw Almond again. It was after this meal that I can declare that Raw Almond is one of the greatest dining experiences I have ever had. When I arrived I had no expectation of the others at the table (I was dining alone this night) but I left with lifelong friends. As if the stars were lined up, I was situated with some of the friendliest, warmest and thoughtful group of diners. All staff from a local business they all shared a passion for great food and unique dining experiences. We hit it off immediately! And while the conversation went deeper, the food started to arrive.
 

As I write this I am reminded again of the community and bonds Raw Almond creates. As someone who everyday works with hard working no nonsense physicians, it was a refreshing departure to meet and share food and drink with artistic and creative folk.

The initial snack today was Deep Fried Pork Skin, Paprika. The crispy pork skin was nicely prepared and paired well with the paprika. The light crunch of the pork skin melts in your mouth and warms your soul as we prepared for this meal.

The amuse bouche was cleverly presented. A Beet Parfait with Foam and Caviar, the chef showed an intricacy of flavour with the strong rustic beet mixed in well with the salty caviar and creamy foam. A strong offering to start, albeit a bit difficult to consume.

Next up was a Pureed Kohlrabi soup with XO Sauce. This truly harkens to Momofuku's standard of Asian fusion cuisine. The kohlrabi was expertly done and exceptionally smooth. I am a sucker for XO sauce and thought its addition here was splendid adding a layer of salty, sweet and bitterness to the creamy kohlrabi.

This was a marvel to behold: BC Striped Shrimp, Fermented Black Bean, Pickled Onion. The shrimp, very lightly blanched was incredibly tender and contrasted with the sharp black bean sauce well. I was impressed by the freshness of the shrimp and the chefs ability to cook it to a perfect doneness to avoid any rubbery-ness.

Beef Carpaccio, Bacon, Soy Reduction was a solid effort. The tender carpaccio was paired with crisp bacon and a soy reduction. I love the pairing of beef and soy but thought the bacon a little strong and overpowered the delicate flavour of the beef. Furthermore the combination of the bacon's saltiness with the soy reduction made this dish a tad salty for my tastebuds.

Next came the Goose & Foie Gras Wonton, Goose Consumme, Kale, Mustard Oil. This dish was divine. The wonton, incredibly rich, tender and fatty, was paired well with the strong consumme broth. The addition of kale affords the dish some brightness and freshness while the mustard oil adds a sharp dimension to the fat in the wonton. This was across the board a table favourite and something I will attempt to recreate at home.

The starch of the night was a Cavatelli, Turkey Sausage, Black Truffle, Aged Parmesan. The cavatelli was left intentionally chewy so it would contrast the lean soft turkey sausage. The black truffle adds luxuriousness while the aged parmesan holds the whole dish together. Well done!

Another table favourite was the Roasted Halibut, Oyster Creme Fraiche, Razor Clams, Chorizo Fat, Roasted Onions. First off, the halibut was exceptionally tender. The chorizo fat added a fattiness that was cut by the oyster creme fraiche. I felt the razor clams were left to the side here with small bits of cut up clams that did not give the dish anything extra. Overall I was impressed by the perfect doneness of the halibut.

Smoked Beef Cheek, Brussels Sprouts, Sour Cream was incredible. The already tender beef cheek was made even more so by the smoking process. The sharp brussels sprouts, which were wok-tossed to add a slight char, was a great accompaniment and the sour cream a nice cooling component of the dish. Not to mention how beautifully plated this was!

The most unique dish was the Shaved Foie Gras, Reisling Jelly, Quince, Black Walnuts. I was not taken by this dish. I thought the foie gras too fatty and too strong in this dish and overtook any textural or flavour contrasts in the reisling jelly or the quince. The walnuts added a nice crunch but I was simply tasting fatty foie with no other notes.

Fortunately Chef Bates did not leave us disappointed. The Spiced Carrot Cake, Chai Tea Meringue, Carrot Sorbet was a superb end of the meal. I enjoy desserts with a savoury component and thought the chai tea meringue added a well needed earthy component to the rich carrot cake. The sorbet was easily my favourite portion of the dish with smooth cool sorbet dulling the spice of the carrot cake.

Overall Raw Almond is a tour de force of the Winnipeg food scene. Never have I been more satisfied with my dining experience than the last two meals I had at Raw Almond. Being able to fulfill my dream of dining at a Momofuku is one thing, meeting a bunch of brilliant and loving people is another. To be able to rub elbows with some of Winnipeg's greatest chefs, have deep discussions with like minded diners, all in a warm award winning restaurant on the river, will be one of the greatest culinary memories of my life. With that I thank Momofuku and Raw Almond for the awe-inspiring meal.

Manitoba Pediatric Society Dinner, Sydney's at the Forks

I had previously blogged about Sydney's a few times prior. As a member of the Manitoba Pediatric Society, we have monthly to bimonthly dinners to discuss new trending topics in pediatrics. It affords the resident the ability to socialize and meet community and hospitalist pediatricians to discuss and network. I always valued these meetings as a pleasant evening away from the rigors of being a resident ... plus how can you say no to tasty food at Sydney's at the Forks.

Sydney's is located on the second floor of the Forks Market. A beautiful venue featuring upscale fine dining, I am impressed by the consistently stellar service and solid food.

As with each previous dinner, a special five course menu is set aside for the Manitoba Pediatric Society dinners. Featuring contemporary upscale cuisine, Sydney's offers two options each for the Starter, Appetizer, Main and Dessert. I commend the chefs for offering both safe standard starters, a la caesar salad, and unique creative dishes, ala crayfish bisque. Onto the food!

A fellow resident started with the Organic Greens. The house vinaigrette works well here by adding a tart acidity to the tomato, cucumber and mixed greens.

I went with the Humarsupa Bisque. Originating from Iceland, the Humarsupa is a creamy soup usually from a broth of seafood. Sydney's version has a nice crayfish essence in the broth. The charred marshmallow adds a nice textural contrast to the excellent soup.

For my appetizer I went with the Oxtail Croquettes. Tender pieces of seasoned braised oxtail are crusted, deep fried and served with a chili sauce and salsa verde. I was impressed by the tenderness of the oxtail and enjoyed the contrast of the crispy crust with the succulent meat. The two sauces do a admirable job to compliment the savouriness of the dish, but I would have appreciated a touch more freshness as the entire dish felt too heavy.

My fellow resident went with the Sardinian Fregola Pasta. Fregola, a tender pasta akin to couscous is mixed in with tender clams and served with a gremolata. The clams were nicely cooked and had a wonderful seafood broth that permeated the pasta well. The gremolata though seemed tacked on and did not add much to the overall flavour of the dish.

My fellow resident had the Salmon Fillet for her main. A large portion of roasted salmon on a bed of rice and asparagus and served with spiced tomato and a caviar vinaigrette. This was excellent! The fish was perfectly cooked flaky tender but it was the caviar vinaigrette that held the entire dish together. Tasty!

My main was the Certified Angus Beef. A nice 6 ounce portion of medium rare served with bordelaise (French wine based sauce), vegetables and a mushroom cap fritter. Beef and red wine are a classic pairing and this dish reaffirms why, with the richness of the beef interjected by the sweetness and tartness of the wine sauce. The mushroom cap fritter was an playful accompaniment featuring a smooth mushroom core with a crisp exterior. Overall the beef was well cooked and the dish well presented.

I unfortunately had to step out early prior to desserts but I was assured that both the creme brulee and pavlova were excellent. I thoroughly enjoy these nights out with the Manitoba Pediatric Society as they give me an opportunity to learn and network among the best and brightest pediatricians in Winnipeg. Sydney's is an excellent venue featuring tasty upscale cuisine and while I have now become accustomed to their consistently good food, they still surprise and excite me with every meal. That is the hallmark of a great restaurant.

Cornerstone Bar, Just Average

At the end of medical school, prospective applicants must go through a process called CaRMS (Canadian Resident Matching Service). To summarize, the process takes applicants and matches them with programs in specific specialties of their choice. For medical students this means you travel across Canada interviewing in a span of three weeks. For programs this means you have to host a number of interviewees and showcase your program. As part of this process, the pediatrics residents arranged a number of socials to give applicants the ability to meet current residents, explore Winnipeg a bit and most importantly, fill their bellies with some of Winnipeg's tasty eats.

To find a location capable of handling upwards of 20 people was difficult but we were able to arrange for the Cornerstone Bar & Restaurant. A large bright restaurant at the corner of Osborne & River Avenue, the Cornerstone is a popular bar in Winnipeg and the eclectic Osborne Street.

The menu is nicely arranged and has is fairly extensive. It is obvious there is a number of Asian influences which adds uniqueness and creativity on top of the standard pub fair. Cornerstone also has a number of daily specials that range from Vietnamese sandwiches to fresh oysters.

We started off with a Cheese Platter. Parmesan, Brie and Mozzarella were paired with a variety of crackers and crostinis and served with bacon jam and a tomato jam. The bacon jam was the highlight with a smoky fatty flavour that went very well with the smooth creamy cheeses. Well presented and tasty.

Chicken Wings are a pub favourite and the Honey Garlic version here were solid. Nicely breaded chicken wings with a tasty honey garlic sauce. Overall nothing spectacular or special but as you would expect from a pub.

The Dip Platter features an artichoke dip with crackers, crostinis and fresh vegetables. The dip itself was warm, creamy and smooth. Again this is as you would expect and nothing exceptional or extra-ordinary.

The Steak Bites were a disappointment. To start, the portions of beef were tough and difficult to chew. Furthermore, the breading was soggy and tasteless. Finally the mayo on top of the bites did not mix well with the sriracha aioli. Altogether this made the dish basically inedible. Very disappointing.

I also wanted to order a main to round out my meal. After discussing with the waitress I went with the Chicken Cacciatore. Billed as a braised chicken leg with a litany of vegetables on a white corn polenta, this dish was poorly executed. The presentation sloppy, the chicken poorly seasoned, the polenta bland. The best part was the mixture of vegetables with the sauce but that should be a compliment, not the standout of this dish.

Overall The Cornerstone was a major disappointment. Despite their large bright display and well thought out decor, the food was ultimately not on par. In a city where there is a litany of food options, you can get much better elsewhere and therefore I simply cannot recommend The Cornerstone.

The Grove, Cut Above the Rest

Another venue for our CaRMS suppers was The Grove. A local favourite and well renowned for their pub style food, I entered with some trepidation. I had just been disappointed by the Cornerstone and knew that the Grove was a sister restaurant with some ties to them. However being related does not render the same judgement on all and thus I entered with as much an open mind as possible.

The Grove is a large establishment on the corner of Stafford and Corydon Avenue. I am told this used to be two restaurants, a bar and a restaurant which amalgamated to become the current rendition. I was impressed with the decor and the attentive wait staff. Furthermore it possessed a vibrancy and energy from the packed crowd. I was excited.

The Grove features a stable menu of standard pub fare. Furthermore they offer daily specials which range from an appetizer, main and dessert. Rounding off the menu are local beers and cocktails, should you be in the mood for some alcohol hydration.

As we were ordering for a group we started off with a number of appetizers. The Cheese Platter featured Blue Cheese, Brie and Chevre and was served with crackers, crostinis and fruit. The addition of fruit here was a nice balance to the creamy cheeses.

Their special was the Chicken Wing Platter. Deep fried wings with a homemade honey garlic sauce served with vegetables and a blue cheese dip. The wings themselves were as you would expect, but went well with the creaminess of the cheese dip. Overall solid!

Billed simply as Fancy Fries, this was a monster serving of poutine. I enjoyed the thick cut fries which were topped with nice squeaky cheese and finished with a beef based gravy. Overall this was a good dish but altogether ordinary.

Wanting to try something new we ordered the Chevre & Pequillo Pepper Croquettes. These croquettes were panko crusted, deep fried and served with a roasted pepper dip. This was a nice inventive take on cheese balls. The chevre added a creaminess that was cut by the spiciness of the pequillo pepper. Well done!

To add some heartiness to the meal we went with The Duffy pizza. A nice offering with crusty dough topped with mozzarella, hoison, spicy chicken, tomato, avocado and sriracha. I enjoyed the interplay between the salty Hoison sauce with the creamy avocado and smooth mozzarella. I would never have imagined them working together but somehow The Grove has managed it. On the other hand, the Sriracha sauce feels tacked on and unnecessary in an already flavourful dish.

Wanting to order a main I went with The Stafford Burger. This came highly recommended by many people, and it did not disappoint! A fresh fatty with the usual fixings, avocado, blue cheese and bacon jam. The interplay between the fresh avocado, sharp blue cheese and fatty bacon jam with the crisp vegetables make this dish work. The patty itself was well done and cooked perfectly, but it was the toppings and fixings that took it to another level. I still can taste that bacon jam!

Despite being sister pubs, The Grove does a much better job than The Cornerstone in food delivery and creativity. I enjoyed the interplay of multiple flavour profiles and welcomed the creativity displayed in their dishes. Ultimately the Grove does a fine job on delivering modern pub fare with a twist and is worth the visit, if not just to try the bacon jam!