Kim Thanh - Average Pho

Finding the best pho in Winnipeg is a difficult process with new restaurants popping up on an seemingly daily basis. With each boasting authentic home inspired cuisine, it can be a daunting process to find the best pho in town. Therefore in my continued need to establish the best Vietnamese (and other cuisine) restaurants in Winnipeg, I find myself at Kim Thanh.

Kim Thanh is located close to the hospital on Notre Dame by Arlington. The unassuming exterior might be a seemingly drab contrast to other newer restaurants, but is serviceable and most importably, noticeable for passersby. Similarly, the interiors are nothing to shout home about, but seem clean and feature a modest number of chairs for diners and patrons.

The menu itself is rather sprawling. Impressed by the number of dishes here, diners should be pleased by the great variety of Vietnamese cuisine found here. Starting from the classic Vietnamese phos and noodle soups, one also finds the popular Vermicelli bowls, traditional stir fries and French inspired submarine sandwiches. An impressive feat considering the small family-run aspect of the restaurant.

My hallmark for any Vietnamese establishment is the Rare Beef & Beef Balls Pho and the version here was simply average. Kim Thanh's pho broth, the most important ingredient, lacked a depth of flavour usually found in pho broths, but rather had a MSG filled instant soup flavour to it. Furthermore, the beef balls were missing the sponginess one usually finds but rather were firm and rather unappealing. The rare beef, thankfully was as advertised and thinly cut.

Prawn & Pork Salad Rolls are a favorite of mine and another marker of the quality of a Vietnamese restaurant. These rolls were again average with nice springy shrimp and pork slices all wrapped together with a bevy of vegetables and rice noodles. The accompanying hoisin based sauce was a tasty, albeit extremely salty, dip that complimented the intentionally bland ingredients in the roll well.

Wanting to try a number of things (and also starving from a tiny lunch) I also ordered a Banh Mi Grilled Pork. Harkening back to a French inspiration, the Banh Mi is a classic Vietnamese submarine sandwich taking crusty bread and filling it with a host of grilled meats and vegetables. I enjoyed the version here with nice pieces of tender grilled pork, salty and sugary pickled vegetables and fresh cilantro. Encasing it all is a nice bread that had the needed crunch on the exterior while being velvety soft in the middle.

Fresh bean sprouts are always necessary at a Vietnamese restaurant and while the initial visual passed the test, further inspection revealed old and slightly yellowing sprouts, definitely a turn off for a supposed traditional Vietnamese restaurant.

I have to be underwhelmed by Kim Thanh. Most of their food today was average at best, stale and tasteless at worst; and while the crunchy Banh Mi was a highlight, it did not elevate Kim Thanh above many of the Vietnamese establishments in Winnipeg. You can find better even in the hospital vicinity.